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INTEGRATED CHRONOGRAPH

Parmigiani Fleurier presented the Tonda Chronor Slate a chronograph, created by the watchmaking centers’ manufactures in 18 ct rose gold or white gold, each limited to 25 pieces of each. To a certain extent, Parmigiani Fleurier’s watchmaking expertise in the measurement of time is rooted in the restoration of two pair-cased pocket watches created by James Cox, pieces dating from the 18th century which are held by the Edouard and Maurice Sandoz Foundation collection. Each of these twin timepieces has a jumping seconds mechanism, formed of a hand which makes one revolution per second.

12In 2017, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda Chronor Anniversaire won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the “Chronograph” category. This exceptional timepiece boasts many accomplishments, from its 5 Hertz movement to its two column wheels (one of which drives the split-seconds function), its vertical clutch, a balance held in place by a cross-through bridge, and the movement material: 18 ct rose gold.

In 2019, Parmigiani Fleurier unveiled the Tonda Chronor Slate, a watch with a dial in rich slate grey. This timepiece is uniquely symbolic of the expertise of the Watchmaking Centre. All of its components, excluding the strap and sapphire crystal, have been produced by the different manufactures (Atokalpa, Elwin, Les Artisans Boîtiers, Quadrance & Habillage, and Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier). As is the norm at Parmigiani Fleurier, this watch is 100% Swiss Made.

With a main plate and bridges made from gold, the heart which drives this masculine jewel of Haute Horlogerie is an exclusive hand-wound caliber PF361 which beats at 36,000 oscillations per hour. It comprises two column wheels. The Tonda Chronor Slate is actually an integrated chronograph with split-seconds. What is more, this function is actuated via a vertical clutch. To guarantee legibility, the counters are placed off-center.

The dial of this timepiece also features many fine attributes, such as the pulso meter and tachymeter scales, the seconds and split-seconds hands (which are different colors for improved legibility) and the counters which are set slightly above the axis of the crown. The conception and development of this watch required great skill and expertise, both in terms of its functions, all carefully designed to ensure a coherent whole – a rare feat – and also in terms of the aesthetic which runs through the interior and exterior.

The accuracy to 1/10th of a second and the challenge posed by shaping the extremely malleable gold are accomplishments that lovers of fine watchmaking are sure to fully appreciate. Equally impressive is the design, which ensures that the movement is extremely durable and resistant to impacts, and the fine decoration on the drive components. A knurled bezel encloses the arc of the hands around the dial, and an alligator Hermès strap completes this precious timepiece.

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HAND-GUILLOCHÉD DIAL

With the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear Retrograde Second, ReSec for short, for the first time in its more than 35-year history, Chronoswiss presents a regulator timepiece in a striking 44mm case with an automatic movement. The C.301 is an exceptional automatic caliber developed by Chronoswiss.

22The refined Open Gear construction makes the regulator mechanism a main design element. It is put into the spotlight at the face of the dial, where the train wheel bridges in charge of the off-center hour display were skillfully skeletonized and screwed firmly to the dial, which in turn becomes part of the movement. The eponymous retrograde seconds hand sweeps along the tracks of a 120 degree scale and every 30 seconds jumps back to the start in a trice.

So much technical sophistication demands taking a look at the exterior of the new arrival: the case reveals a dynamic touch and was specially redesigned by Chronoswiss. The bezel is distinctly robust and, depending on the case finish, radiates a fascinating luster. With its shortened horns, the timepiece sits comfortably on the wrist.

The 42-piece dial is also worth a second look through the double-coated sapphire crystal. Regardless of the intriguing play of colors, which make each variant something special, it impresses with its high level of sheer craftsmanship: the dial surface is elaborately hand-guillochéd for each individual timepiece in the series. This is administered with much love and skill on a historic rose-engine in the workshops of the House of Chronoswiss, Lucerne, thus creating an exceptional fusion of innovative design and traditional craftsmanship.

The hand-guillochéd dial means, however, that the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec can be made only in a limited edition of 50 units worldwide. They all carry their individual limited series number on the dial. Other noteworthy features include the intense indexes that glow persistently in the dark, made of a mix of Super-LumiNova and ceramics, whose massive cylinder shape provides a perfect match for the 3-D design of the dial. The hands in the shape of elongated triangles and also equipped with Super-LumiNova inlays ensuring optimal night readability, were specially designed by Chronoswiss. The rear of the Flying Grand Regulator Open Gear ReSec is also worth a second glance, as the beauty of the embellished movement can be admired through the sapphire crystal back.

Versatility determines the collection in all five versions. Particularly eye-catching is the model in blue, whose color is by no means limited to the dial, with its case being entirely “Electric Blue”. It derives its fascinating color through the coating with a high-quality, extremely scratch-resistant DLC (diamond-like-carbon) finish with a hardness of 4,500 Vickers, also ensuring its irresistible luster. The components used for the complex dial construction are also coated with blue DLC, such as the skeletonized gear train bridges and the hour gauge funnel. And even at night, the blue color variation remains true, because all the fluorescent elements such as the inlays of hands and indices match the blue of the Super-LumiNova Blue Line. It’s no surprise that the bracelet also fits into the color scheme.

The versions with highlights in bright green or red are also colorful, standing out effectively from the black DLC case and the hand-guillochéd, black galvanized dial – and in the truest sense of the word, since all colored parts are further prominently highlighted on second and third levels. The stitching of the distinctive Hornback crocodile leather straps is bright green or red enhancing the particular accent.

There are finally two more variations both classical and yet contemporary. While the timepiece with a solid red gold case and elegant grey strap and dial is impressive, the alternative stainless steel case houses a galvanic silver dial with blue accents, taken up by the blue Hornback crocodile leather strap. This variant is also available with a steel bracelet on request. All five versions have one thing in common: they celebrate the fusion of progressive design and traditional craftsmanship. And it’s always fun to follow the seconds hand, as you admire the hand-guillochéd dial – and watch it jumping back in a flash every 30 seconds.

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INDEPENDENT SWISS WATCHMAKER

Independent Swiss watchmaker, Oris, in its mission to bring change for the better is partnering with two of the world’s most powerful agents of community as it makes an all-out effort through the pioneering men’s health charity Movember, and manager of the New York Yankees baseball team, Aaron Boone.

23As an independent Swiss watch company, Oris has the freedom to go its own way and to choose projects the brand considers not just important, but urgent. One such initiative is men’s health, which is why they are working with Movember, a charity working to stop men dying too young.

Movember is doing incredible work to promote action and awareness around men’s physical and mental health. Oris has also presented the Oris Movember Edition, a special version of the iconic Oris Chronoris in support of the charity.

Fans come from all walks of life, but they unite in support of the team’s pursuit of victory. Similarly, Oris is bringing its community together to bring change for the better. As well as spearheading a worldwide fundraising campaign, Oris will donate part of the proceeds from the Movember Edition to Movember.

Too many men are dying too young. Experts calculate that prostate cancer rates will double in the next 15 years, while testicular cancer rates have doubled in the last 50. Each year, more than 500,000 men die by suicide around the world, meaning men account for three quarters of all suicides. Globally, suicide is the second leading cause of death among 15 to 29-year-old men.

Movember was founded in 2003 and has grown rapidly since. It has now supported more than 1,250 projects around the world that address these issues. Oris is proud to be one of the charity’s supporting partners. Movember has seen how community can help men struggling with serious health issues. Much like Yankees fans lift the team in times of adversity, Movember is looking for supporters who can help make a difference.

Whatever you do, from growing a moustache, to hosting an event, or getting active and taking on a physical challenge – it can all start a dialogue and save a man’s life,’ Simon continues. The charity’s bold vision is to reduce the number of men dying prematurely by 25 per cent by 2030. And, for the third year running, with the help of Oris and the Oris community, they will take another important step towards achieving that. Oris has become a significant partner in spreading awareness and raising vital funds.

Oris marks its partnership and support of the pioneering men’s mental health charity Movember with a special edition Chronoris. The watch diameter measures 39.00 mm (1.535 inches) and has a black dial with a rose gold-plated hour and minutes hands, orange seconds hand and white indices Luminous Material Hands printed with Super-LumiNova®.

The watch has a sapphire glass covering the top which is domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside. It has two bracelet options – either a brown leather strap with stainless steel buckle or a stainless steel bracelet with a folding clasp. The watch is water resistant to 10 bar (100 meters) and has an automatic winding movement developed by Oris (caliber 733). It has a power-reserve of 38 hours and comes in a special presentation box with a well-designed leather travel pouch which protects the watch (luxury brands take note) and a red and white NATO fabric strap with stainless steel buckle.

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NEW 1887 MODEL

Eberhard & Co marks a return to its roots with the EB140 caliber – a manual winding movement (14”’- 28,800 A/h-18 rubies) with exclusive architecture and special technical and structural specifications. The aesthetic aspect also reveals meticulous care over details, particularly the bridge for the balance wheel and the large bridge for the gear trains, distinguished by the traditional finishing with a “circular wave” pattern. The screws are blued and the incisions are gilded.

11The new “1887” model was designed to express all the potential of this caliber. It is a watch with balanced lines, with a steel case measuring 41.80 mm in diameter that leaves ample space for a dial of extreme elegance, available in two versions with gold or rhodium-plated numbers and indices. The taste is a bit “retro”, thanks to the “clou de Paris” workmanship and the trapezoidal date window, which has already been adopted by Eberhard & Co. for some historical models.

The logo on the dial is part of the historical heritage and is documented in the archives of the early 1900s. The sapphire crystal case back certainly could not be missed: it proudly shows off the beauty of the EB140 caliber. Great detail has also been given to the choice of straps, among which, in addition to the traditional alligator models, a new creation will be presented. It is the result of collaboration with the prestigious ULTURALE tie-makers, one of the best-known ambassadors of this historic Neapolitan sartorial tradition. It is a Jacquard silk strap, in two different versions combined with the two dials, dedicated to the “dandy” of the new millennium and produced exclusively for Eberhard & Co.

Vincenzo Ulturale, founder of Ulturale: “We are proud of the opportunity we were given by Eberhard & Co. to share a project that pays tribute to a long-lasting excellence, achieved by means of exclusive materials, workmanship and creativity.”

In 1887, the time, when the Swiss Maison was founded by Georges-Lucien Eberhard, La Chaux-de-Fonds was already the town that most represented the heart of Swiss watchmaking in the world. The historic Baroque style building, built by the founder and known in the town as “La Maison de l’Aigle”, brought together the watchmaking studios and the family home under one roof.

Today Eberhard & Co. has returned to its roots by re-establishing its headquarters within the Maison de l’Aigle and has contributed to restoring the imposing eagle that defines it, dominating “Le Pod”, the main road through La Chaux-de-Fonds, from the roof of the building. To celebrate this turning point, Eberhard & Co. inaugurated its first museum, offering enthusiasts the chance to admire the horological creations that have marked over 130 years of industrial history.

This is clearly a decisive step that the Maison has taken in the context of its long-term vision. Proof of this is the presentation of a new, exclusive caliber, the EB140, entirely produced for Eberhard in La Chaux-de-Fonds, and of the new model destined to house the movement inside: the Eberhard “1887”.

Each item of the new “1887” was designed and built to create a true bridge between the Maison’s past and future, while at the same time paying homage to all those who have made beautiful watchmaking their life’s passion.

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AUTOMATIC WATCH

After its facelift, the tried-and-tested Regulator Classic from Chronoswiss now re-emerges with a sporty-elegant overall appearance. The re-launch is in this case not limited to the dial, but includes the entire watch. In the future, the all-rounder will be available in two different sizes: in addition to the 41mm diameter (a Chronoswiss standard), the Regulator Classic is also available in a 37mm case.

22The timepiece has been consistently revised in many other ways, especially the shortened horns providing a contemporary touch. To enable its full use day and night, the watch comes as standard with a redesigned bracelet made of sturdy stainless steel attached directly to the case.

The steel bracelet and the increased water resistance of 10 bar / 100m make the Regulator Classic the perfect companion for almost all occasions – from the beach to the stylish dinner (* from beach to tux: literally, from the beach to the tuxedo). Even changing temperatures make no difference.

The source of power for the challenges of everyday life is the proven automatic C.295 caliber with a power reserve of over 40 hours, which Chronoswiss has equipped with an independent regulator modification. Otherwise, the Regulator Classic remains true to its name – its appeal stems from the blend of a classic appearance with sporty-elegant accents.

Refined details such as the guilloche interior of the hours and seconds display, or the precisely scaled hands reflect the brand’s high level of watchmaking know-how.  Not least through carefully selected color and material combinations, Chronoswiss has created an uncomplicated automatic watch that effortlessly masters the balancing act between watchmaking tradition and timeless design.

The Regulator Classic is available as described in two sizes and three versions: very purist with a galvanic silver dial and thermally blued hands, or slightly more unconventional galvanized in midnight blue. The third version is even sportier, introducing a dash of dynamism with signal red accents against a dial galvanized grey and black. Whether silver-colored, blue or grey and black, in every version elements made of Super-LumiNova guarantee optimal readability even in the dark – and make the Regulator Classic the perfect all-rounder 24/7.

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POETRY OF LUNAR CALENDAR

Two years after it first appeared, Parmigiani Fleurier is updating the aesthetic of the Tonda 1950 Lune with a model featuring a slate dial and a second design with round diamonds on the bezel. Both showcase the poetry of the “lunar calendar” complication which illuminates their dial with a new layout. Behind this harmony, it is easy to forget the sheer mechanical complexity required to create an ultra-thin self-winding movement which comprises so many time indications. The Tonda 1950 Lune is both a technical and beautiful tour de force.

22With a rose gold case matched with a slate color dial, this Tonda 1950 Lune is the epitome of the classic elegant watch. The lunar calendar, displaying the two hemispheres, is located at 10 o’clock instead of its previous position at 12 o’clock. This offset layout balances the date at 3 o’clock, the logo at 1 o’clock, and the small seconds window at 6 o’clock. All of the time indications are structured to create a pleasingly harmonious dial.

On the other hand, the Tonda 1950 Lune with diamonds features a rose gold case, a mother of pearl dial, a beautiful complement to the light which plays across the precious stones – a combination which cannot fail to enthrall. Additional touches adorn the piece, such as the moon at 10 o’clock which is set in the middle of a starry sky, and the gold outline around the date window at 4 o’clock. Lastly, the dial has been made smaller to accommodate a slightly broader bezel, allowing larger diamonds to be set within it, offering exceptional sparkle and brilliance, unlike any other.

The Tonda 1950 Lune owes its slender proportions to its caliber, the PF708, a mechanism combining precision and reliability with automatic winding thanks to its platinum micro-rotor. Its elements have been carefully arranged on the main plate to ensure the various time indications are harmoniously displayed. As is standard practice at Parmigiani Fleurier, and one of its hallmarks, it boasts hand-applied finishes and beveled bridges. Its sublime structure is complemented by “Côtes de Genève” decoration.

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NEW MODEL FOR LADIES ENRICHES

Greating scaled-down versions of men’s watches for ladies can no longer suffice their desire for substantial and practical timepieces. With more women leading busier and more active lifestyles than before, timepieces for ladies have also gravitated towards designs with sportier overtones to complement their needs.

22In 2011, Corum’s iconic and unquestionably masculine Admiral collection was readapted into a daintier, 38-mm diameter version just for the ladies- it has since captured the hearts of many female fans and remains as one of the most sought-after marine-inspired ladies’ timepieces on the market.

Launched in 2013, the AC-One line embraces the design identity of the iconic Admiral collection, yet at the same time writes a new chapter by infusing it contemporary updates such as a giving it a more rounded shape, plus combining both polished and satin-brushed finishes on the case. This year, Corum has again turned its focus towards the ladies, by unveiling the AC-One 38 Automatic.

Counting on the popularity of the earlier AC-One models, the AC-One 38 Automatic aims to complement the 45mm-diameter models with feminized version. The watch has a much smaller case diameter of 38mm which means that the original proportions of the dodecagonal-cased AC-One 45 had to be scaled down carefully. While adhering strictly to the design codes of the AC-One, the case of the AC-One 38 was given a slight makeover in order to make it more curvaceous than its masculine counterpart.

Together with the creation of a shapelier and svelte silhouette for the AC-One 38, Corum had to redesign its signature Corum-decorated micro-rotor for the CO 082 automatic movement used to power this new ladies’ timepiece, in order to fit the size of its case. This watch has a power reserve of 42 hours and is water resistant up to 50 meters. New straps and a triple-folding clasp were also created for the timepiece to make it more comfortable on the wrist.

The AC-One 38 Automatic is presented either with a Titanium grade 2 or 5N 18k rose case. Its dauphine-style hands are partially skeletonized and filled with white superluminova. The white dial, decorated with three-dimensional “Grenadier fendu” finishing, is paired with white rubber straps for a crisp and chic look. The icing on the cake – the 72 round VS-grade diamonds set around the bezel. Sporty, practical and elegant at the same time, the AC-One 38 is incredibly versatile and will be the perfect companion for the stylish, upbeat and outdoor-loving woman, be it at work, a glamorous evening, or while enjoying a luxurious weekend getaway at sea.

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CHRONOSWISS ADDS BEAUTY

Luxury Swiss brand Chronoswiss has added another star to its glittering Sirius collection with the remarkably incomparable Sirius Chronograph Moon Phase. The stunning timepiece with, a navy dial chronograph with a moon phase and analog date indicator, completes a trio along with the previous steel and gold white dial options from the fine watchmaker.

22Ensconced in a 41-mm steel case stylized with partially knurled edges, polished and brushed finishing, uncommon tipped chronograph pushers, and the characteristic large onion crown, this substantial timepiece comes with a Louisiana alligator strap using long, straight lugs. The blue, partially guilloché-decorated dial shows off an analog date window produced in a vintage style, with a red-tipped crescent moon indicator hand. Inside is a punctuated chronograph minute counter, with applied Breguet hour markers between the quarter hour positions.

With plenty of classical design elements and vintage features that harken back to the first half of the twentieth century, which are nicely juxtaposed with modern finishing, the Sirius Chronograph Moon Phase can take its place among the Lucerne-based manufacture’s iconic creations.

Among the watch functions include hours, minutes, small seconds, analogue date, moon phases, chrono-center second, 30-minute-counter and 12-hour-counter. The watch case is made up of solid 23-part stainless steel case, with satin finish and polished bezel with partial knurling and curved, non-reflecting sapphire crystal. The watch case back too is screwed down with satin finish and sapphire crystal and the watch is water resistant up to 30 meters. Other prominent features of the watch include  a power reserve of 46 hours (approximately). Special features such as a skeletonized and rhodium-plated rotor with Côtes de Genève and ball bearing; polished pallet lever, escape wheel and screws; bridges and plates add to the value of this timepiece.

From the very beginning, Chronoswiss prides itself on its high quality mechanical “Swiss Made” timepieces that have been manufactured with components from selected Swiss suppliers only. Many of the brands’ models feature exclusive manufacture movements. Above all, the love for even the smallest detail and the passion for technical precision make their watches so special.

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ORIS OCEAN TRILOGY

Oris, the independent Swiss watch company has been supporting and championing ocean conservation programs for years, most recently through The Oceans Project, which raises awareness and funds for pioneering agencies with game-changing visions. The latest expression of the brand’s mission is the Oris Blue Whale Limited Edition, the third and final piece in the Oris Ocean Trilogy, a trio of watches based on the Oris Aquis diver’s watch.

The new watch is limited to 200 pieces and will only be available as part of a set delivered in a unique presentation case made of recycled PET plastic bottles (right).

The first two pieces in the Oris Blue Whale trilogy were announced at Baselworld this year. The Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition III and the Clean Ocean Limited Edition have been made in partnership with the Reef Restoration Foundation and Pacific Garbage Screening respectively. While those watches focused on restoring coral reefs and cleaning the world’s waters, the Oris Blue Whale Limited Edition turns to the plight of whales, and in particular to protecting the world’s largest animal.

JR_200217_D01_Ep104_JT_0049.RAFEven after decades of campaigning and greater protection, six out of 13 great whale species are classified as endangered. Over 1,000 whales are killed every year for commercial purposes, despite a moratorium on commercial whaling and a ban on international trade of whale products. It’s thought that there are now as few as 10,000 blue whales left in our oceans. These magnificent creatures sit at the top of the food chain, eat four tons of krill a day, and can measure up to 30 meters (100 feet) in length and weigh up to 200 tons, equivalent to 33 elephants. Their hearts pump 5,300 liters of blood around their bodies and their songs have been recorded at 188 decibels, more than 40 decibels louder than a jet engine.

Oris’s Oceans Project to bring change for the better aims to clean, protect and restore our oceans through a series of limited edition watches. The Oris Ocean Trilogy is made up of three limited edition watches, each created to shine a light on a pioneering organization and the vital work it’s doing to either clean, protect or restore the world’s oceans and the source of all life – water.

The newly launched Blue Whale Limited Edition follows two watches already released: the Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition III and the Clean Ocean Limited Edition. All three are based on the high-performance Oris Aquis diver’s watch. The Oris Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition III is the third watch made in support of work to conserve the world’s largest reef system.

The Great Barrier Reef has been badly affected by two coral bleaching events in recent years, caused by hot summers that warm the ocean waters to levels that mean corals expel the algae inside them that provides them with food and color. Unless water temperatures cool, the coral will die. Through the Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition III, Oris supports the Reef Restoration Foundation, a non-profit running coral planting programs using coral that has survived the bleaching events.

The Oris Clean Ocean Limited Edition marks a partnership with Pacific Garbage Screening, which is working on a concept to capture plastic waste in rivers and estuaries before it reaches the ocean and turn it into energy using a spectacular floating platform. The Oris Ocean Trilogy supports a trio of projects vital to the health of our oceans. It’s limited to 200 pieces and is presented in a special box made using recycled PET plastic.

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LITTLE LANGE 1

Ahand-engraved lunar disc in white gold distinguishes the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase launched by A. Lange & Sohne on the occasion of the 25th birthday of the Lange 1 from the standard version. It has a diameter of 36.8 millimeters and debuts in a limited edition of merely 25 watches.

As the ninth of a total of ten special models, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase 25th Anniversary recalls the spectacular presentation of the Lange 1 on 24 October 1994. The hallmarks of the systematically two-toned anniversary edition include a white-gold case, a silver-colored dial in solid silver with blue printed elements and blued steel hands.

ALS_182_066_F_Little_Lange1_MP_25th_2019_1916530-1_1The color concept is echoed by a characteristic movement detail: the blue lined engraving of the balance cock in German silver features a depiction of the outsize date in relief with the number “25” to match the anniversary. The watch is worn on a dark blue alligator leather strap with a white-gold buckle.

As all manually wound timepieces of the Lange 1 family, the Little Lange 1 Moon Phase – first introduced in 2017 – has an asymmetric dial with an outsize date and an up/down power reserve display. The moon-phase indication is so precise that it only has to be corrected by one day every 122.6 years.

As was already the case with the Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase 25th Anniversary, this special edition also features a hand-engraved lunar disc. Six stars and numerous little dots depict the starry sky and together with the applied golden moons form a three-dimensional heavenly canopy.

The manufacture caliber L121.2, painstakingly finished, polished, and decorated by hand, runs at a frequency of 21,600 semi-oscillations an hour and due to its twin mainspring barrel only needs to be rewound every three days.

Dresden watchmaker Ferdinand Adolph Lange laid the cornerstone of Saxony’s precision watchmaking industry when he established his manufactory in 1845. His precious pocket watches remain highly coveted among collectors all over the world. The company was expropriated after World War II, and the name A. Lange & Söhne nearly vanished.

In 1990, Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s great-grandson Walter Lange had the courage to make a new start. Today, Lange crafts only a few thousand wristwatches in gold or platinum per year. They are endowed exclusively with proprietary movements that are lavishly decorated and twice assembled by hand. With 63 manufacture calibers developed since 1994, A. Lange & Söhne has secured a top-tier position in the world of watchmaking.

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